Portuguese Port and Wine Producers Raise Alarm: ‘Douro Valley in Danger’
This article is written By Miral de Bruijne on NOS.nl and has been translated for your convenience to read. Please note this is not our own article. All credits go to the NOS.
Correspondent for Spain and Portugal
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Douro Valley is a source of pride for the Portuguese, with its breathtaking hills lined with rows of grapevines. But local farmers are increasingly concerned about its future. They are raising the alarm: the Douro Valley is in danger.
Quinta nova de nossa senhora do carmo
The valley is named after the Douro River, which flows from deep within Spain to Porto. Its fertile soil and favorable climate provide ideal conditions for growing grapes, and vineyards cover the landscape as far as the eye can see.
However, dark clouds loom over the region. For the first time in history, winemakers and port producers may receive subsidies to discard a portion of their grape harvest.
Concerns Among Small and Medium-Sized Producers
Small and medium-sized producers are especially worried. One of them is Victor Herdeiro, who took over his family's vineyards when his parents became too old to manage them. His grandfather originally started cultivating the land.
"The Douro region has never faced a crisis like this," says Herdeiro.
The Causes
Herdeiro points to several factors contributing to the crisis:
Market Saturation:
More and more vineyards are being established worldwide.
Due to the hilly terrain, grape cultivation in the Douro Valley is more expensive than in other regions, making it hard to compete with wines from Spain and Chile.
Declining Demand for Port Wine:
Fewer people are drinking port, and these grapes usually sell at a premium compared to table wine.
To prevent an oversupply of port wine, the government has introduced stricter regulations, limiting production.
Wine Smuggling from Spain:
Many local farmers report that cheaper Spanish wine is smuggled across the border and falsely sold as Douro Valley wine.
"There is no strict control," complains Herdeiro. "Trucks that are supposed to deliver a single shipment bring multiple loads under the same paperwork to cooperatives or export companies, and authorities don’t notice."
Weak Enforcement & Hopes for Change
This issue has also been observed by Rui Paredes, the chairman of Casa do Douro, a regional wine and port producers’ association.
"There was a lack of control and enforcement," he admits. "In the past, the free movement of goods within the EU was misinterpreted, allowing foreign wine to be imported unchecked."
However, now that the problem is more visible, Paredes believes steps can be taken to regain control.
Producers welcome the government's tentative approval of subsidies, which aim to prevent a market surplus that would force wine prices to plummet.
Long-Term Solutions
Looking ahead, the wine producers want the government to consider alternative strategies, such as:
✅ Converting surplus wine into brandy, which is an essential ingredient in making port wine.
✅ Producing brandy domestically, instead of importing it for port fermentation.
Urgency for Action
The need for solutions is pressing, says José Leite Pereira, who represents Cave Santa Marta, a cooperative that processes grapes from small farmers.
"Over the past two years, we have seen a 20% drop in production. No sector can survive such a sudden reduction," he warns.
Clear Regulations Needed Amid Political Instability
Leite Pereira stresses that many farmers are uncertain whether they will even be able to sell their grapes at the end of the year.
With Portugal’s government recently collapsing and elections not scheduled until mid-May, uncertainty grows. Producers fear that without immediate intervention, the Douro Valley will suffer irreversible consequences.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site at Risk
The men agree: The Portuguese government must prioritize the Douro Valley.
"We are in a UNESCO World Heritage region," sighs Leite Pereira. "The landscape is essential. If small winemakers are forced to quit and plant fruit trees instead, the scenery will change drastically. The cultural heritage that attracts tourists will disappear from the Douro region."
For farmers like Victor Herdeiro, this would be catastrophic.
"If this continues, the Douro region as we know it will vanish," he says. "This would cause a major social crisis. In three to four years, this could mean the end of the region. People here know no other work, and poverty and hunger would follow."
For the full article on national Dutch news site see: https://nos.nl/artikel/2559908-portugese-port-en-wijnproducenten-slaan-alarm-douro-vallei-in-gevaar
