A Journey Back to 1985: Horizontal Tasting of 12 Vintage Ports
1985 was a standout year for vintage port, marked by an abundance of crops. This abundance challenged many houses, as they were not fully prepared to handle such a prolific harvest. What better way to honor this unique vintage than by tasting 12 different labels side by side? In this horizontal tasting, we delve into the nuances, successes, and stumbles of each producer’s interpretation of the vintage. Let’s uncork history and flavor together.
the line-up of this tasting of 1985 vintages
Pousada Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: With a structure and color reminiscent of a colheita, this wine opens on a medicinal note with high alcohol dominating the palate. The profile is flat, with a disappointingly short finish. Score: 75/100
History: Pousada, a lesser-known producer, aimed to carve out its niche in the competitive vintage port market. While their 1985 attempt falls short of expectations, it’s a testament to the experimental nature of smaller producers in a golden era for port. For more info on Pousada - check Poças on prtwine.com
Ferreira Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A light color reveals hints of red at the edges. The wine is notably soft, with vanilla tones taking center stage. While it offers a touch of body, the experience is ultimately middle-of-the-road. Score: 79/100
History: Ferreira is known for its accessible ports, often balancing tradition with a more modern appeal. Their 1985 vintage showcases their characteristic focus on approachability, though it lacks the complexity of their contemporaries.
Burmester Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: Aromas of stewed fruit greet the nose. The medium body carries through to a medium-short finish, with the alcohol showing prominently. Score: 78/100
History: Founded in 1750, Burmester has long been a name synonymous with consistent quality. Their 1985 vintage reflects the house’s commitment to tradition but doesn’t quite rise to the heights of other years.
Graham’s Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A beautiful red-brown hue accompanies toasted, nutty aromas with a hint of macadamia. The finish is sweet and full, lingering pleasantly. Score: 85/100
History: Graham’s, established in 1820, is celebrated for its rich, opulent styles. Their 1985 vintage highlights the elegance and depth for which the house is known, offering a delightful balance of sweetness and complexity.
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A tragic disappointment. Overpowered by rust and metallic notes, the wine lacks fruit and offers sharp, coppery aromas. Score: 30/100
History: Quinta do Noval is a legendary name, famed for its Nacional vintages. However, 1985 stands as a rare misstep for this otherwise iconic producer.
Dow’s Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A refined wine with a full body and long finish. The dry style leaves a slightly sharp edge, but the colheita-like sweetness and complexity redeem it. Score: 87/100
History: Dow’s, one of the Symington family’s crown jewels, excels in creating ports with a drier profile. Their 1985 vintage captures the essence of their philosophy: elegant and structured.
Van Zeller Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: The nose reveals hints of cork and wet paper, with faint notes of licorices. While the body is acceptable, the overall experience is underwhelming. Score: 65/100
History: The Van Zeller family has deep roots in the Douro, yet their 1985 vintage lacks the finesse of their usual offerings. A lesser star in an otherwise illustrious lineage.
Osborne Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: Butterscotch and vanilla dominate the nose, while the palate delivers a strong alcoholic presence. The finish is middling, leaving an impression of a simpler, less refined wine. Score: 72/100
History: Osborne, one of Portugal’s oldest wine houses, has a reputation for producing approachable, everyday ports. Their 1985 vintage aligns with this ethos but falls short of delivering complexity.
Taylor’s Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A dark color leads to sharp, concentrated flavors of apple syrup and burnt notes. The full body and leathery undertones make it a robust but slightly aggressive vintage. Score: 78/100
History: Taylor’s needs no introduction as one of the premier port houses. Their 1985 vintage, while intense, lacks the balance of their best years.
Kopke Single Quinta Luiz 1985
Tasting Notes: A fragrant nose of fruit and complexity draws you in. The balance on the palate is remarkable, with a full, harmonious structure. Score: 90/100
History: Kopke, the oldest port house, is celebrated for its single-quinta vintages. The Luiz vineyard shines in 1985, delivering a wine of depth and elegance.
Calem Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A dark brown color and subtle aromas of cola give way to a full-bodied experience, though the finish is disappointingly short. Score: 75/100
History: Founded in 1859, Calem has a storied history of producing ports that prioritize warmth and accessibility. Their 1985 effort reflects their approachable style.
Fonseca Vintage Port 1985
Tasting Notes: A beautiful brown hue complements the full-bodied richness of the Fonseca signature style. The finish is long, indulgent, and utterly satisfying. Score: 91/100
History: Fonseca’s reputation for powerful, fruit-driven ports is well-deserved. The 1985 vintage stands as a benchmark, showcasing the winery’s mastery of balance and intensity.
Conclusion of this first tasting of 40 year old vintages
This tasting was a great way to start off the year with 12 vintage port, all 40 years of age. From the elegance of Fonseca and Kopke to the tragic collapse of Noval, the diversity of styles and outcomes underscores why vintage port remains an endlessly fascinating category. As always, each bottle tells its own story, and the journey through these 12 was nothing short of memorable.
I thank our host Tom - and his wife that arrange for this tasting. All the guests that have been joining and sharing their stories about port wines, rare finds and cellar secrets!
Till next time!
